MOUNTAINS AND HILLS

Majestic mountains which surround the valley fascinate the visitors immensely and make them curious enough to visit the land beyond this mountains.Being varied in form and colour, these mountains look as beautiful as an artist “might picture in his dream” and a poet “might extrol in his verse”

A lofty mountain chain on the south and south-west, separating the valley from Jammu region of the State, is known by the name of the Pir Panjal Range. It is studded with many peaks and the highest among them is Tatakuti(4743 metres).The other peaks are Brahma Sakal (4704 metres); Parasing (4583 metres); Kousarnag (4436 metres); Aheratop (3974 metres); Naba-Pir(4287 metres); Kankut(4107 metres) and Sundartop (3877 metres);

Another massive topographic barrier, which touches the great promontory of Nanga Parbat (8,113 meters), encloses the valley on the east-northeast and north-northwest. Great Himalyas slopes, as they are commonly called, shut the valley off from the frost-bitten desert land of Ladakh and Baltistan. The highest peak in the mountain range is Kolhoi(54.25 metres), which is also the highest of all the peaks in different mountain ranges surrounding the valley of Kashmir.

Near Zojila, the mountain takes a bend towards the south-west and the chain of mountains that follows,is often described as the north Kashmir range. In this range of mountains are certain peaks which rise to great heights and conspicuous among them are Harmukh (4876 metres);  Shutiyan (4371 metres); Kutbal (4344 metres); and Rangtop (3487 metres). Kainagrad(3639 metres); Marinag (3599 metres) and Rangtop (3487 metres).Kazinag ridge which demarcates the western boundary of Kashmir valley falls in this mountain chain.

Other peaks in different mountain ranges, which are conspicuous for their heights are Sheshnag (5096 metres); Kotsal Saribal (4882 metres); Niltup (4423 metres); Hoksar (4298 metres); Wandar Dur (4333 metres); Moarinag (4431 metres) and Agas Mundi (4196 metres).

In this ring of majestic mountains are found several depressions which  form passes to afford means of communication between the valley  and  the adjacent regions. Traders, travelers and conquerors have, from earlier times, used these passes to enter the valley. Abu Fazl, the noted Mughal historian, mentions twenty-six and Vigne twenty of these passes, but to an active mountaineer, their number is practically unlimited.

The eminences on the surface of the valley are few and inconsiderable.The Hari Parbat rises 76.2 metres above the Dal-Lake; not far from it,rises the Takhat-i-Sulaiman (also called Shankaracharya) to the height of 316.382 metres from the same level. The hill of Ahhteung bounds the southern face of the Manasbal Lake; it is remarkable mainly for its isolated position and abrupt rise to 30.485 metres from the level of the surrounding areas. About 5.kms. to the east of Shopain town,is huge circular mound known as Lahanthur, which looks prominent from different directions.

The mountain ranges of Kashmir are rich in the vegetation  and forests, and as such , are of great importance to the valley.They supply water,timber, fuel and pastures upon which the prosperity of the valley largely depends. The lower position of the mountains are utilized in cultivation of maize and plantation  of walnut and pine trees. At certain places, the rice of different  varieties is grown, depending upon the availability of water and other climatic conditions.

Margs Or Mountain Downs:

The margs or mountain-downs, are numerous on the tops of the range of hills immediately below the Pir Panjal and also upon the northern slopes of mountains enclosing the north-eastern side of the valley. The most important of these margs are Gulmarg, Khilanmarg and Sonamarg. During summer, the sheep and cattle are driven up from the valley to the wood-land glades and , as sun becomes hotter, they pass on to these margs or mountain downs.Fan-like protections with flat tops are seen immediately after the point  where mountains cease to be steep.These table-lands are locally called Wudars and Karewas in Persian.TheKarewas generally drop down to the alluvial soil which slopes gently toward Jehlum.The main valley is thus, divided naturally into two parts viz, the Karewas or table-lands  and  the alluvion of the river.

KAREWAS OR PLATEAUS:

Constituting nearly half of the total area of the valley and enormously adding to its scenic beauty, the karewas play a vital role in the ecology of the region. Being essentially cliffs of clay and consisting, for  the most part of brown sand, these karewasare separated from one another by deep and narrow  valleys.Extending over a length of about 80 kms. from Shopian to Sopore, the Karewas and their ravines have a width varying from 12.8 kms to 25.6 kms. along the south-western side of the valley . Again, the north-western end north-east side of the valley are dotted with Karewa grounds.

The Karewas have the little moisture-retaining capacity and are poor in organic matter. They differ vastly in surface characteristics and are divided into two main types:

1. The flat-topped Karewas.
2. The Slopping Karewas.       

Pampore Wudar , famous for saffron cultivation,is a flat table –land  about 75 metres above the valley floor and is a good specimen of the first category of Karewas. The level topped karewa at Payech is 96 metres above the general level. At Anantnag the Karewa of the same category is 75 metres above the surrounding area.

In the second category are included all the karewas occurring along the south-west side  of the valley. Along tract near shopping slopes to the north-east  and is called a slopping Karewa though,its surface is not so regular and resembles a very flat cone.

ALLUVIAL PLAIN:

From table –lands we go down to the alluvial plains which have been  fromed by deposition of the sediment of the water over-flowing  the river banks during  floods. These plains are found on the both sides of river Jehlum, right from Anantnag to Baramulla town, but with some variation in their width at different places.

Types Of Soil:

The Character of the Soil in Kashmir  valley can be studied with reference to broad physiographic division and, according to this classification, main soil types in the valley are:-

1. The valley basin and the side Valleys of the Jehlum, upto 1,850  

     Metres.

2. The highlands,mainly between 1,850 to 3,350 metres; and

1. The Karewa uplands.

Among these three divisions, the soil on the flanks of the Jehlum is most fertile,as it gets periodically renewed and enriched with the fresh deposition of  slit by recurrent floods. The soil on the highlands and karewas is different at different places and their fertility depends upon the site, nature of slope and altitude of the place. Furthermore, the soil in the valley has been classified on the basis of its chemical properties and suitability for cultivation of different crops. This classification with local names is given as under:-

1. Gurti or silt, owes its origin to floods which are frequent.
2. Bahil or loam is a prized soil and possesses great natural strength. When dry, it appears black.
3. Sekil is an important type of soil used for growing rice.It is a mixture of loan and sand.
4.  Suzarmin is a soil used for growing vegetables.
5. Lemb is a soil in which spring occurs.
6. Rad is a typical type of floating soil on the surface of water.These strips of artificial land are made of lake weed, grass, and clay.
7. Wudar are table-lands used for fruit cultivation such as almonds, apple and cherry.
8. Nambal or swamps are found in Hokarsar,Anchar and Wullar lake areas.